2011 Rosé Roundup
What’s the first thing that comes to mind when thinking about dry rosé? For most, it’s the Cotes de Provence, illustrious south-of-France motherland of pale pink juice for summer. I too venerate the gorgeous landscape, fields of sunflowers and artichokes, gravelly hillsides, seaside towns, bouillabaisse, and guzzlable wines. But while we do have Provence to thank for leading the charge on dry rosé, it is by no means the alpha and the omega. Rosé is produced all over the world now, from Seattle to Sagaponack to Stellenbosch, and stylistically they are as varied as the lands 
from which they inspire.
There are two common ways to produce rosé: skin contact, and saignée.With the first method, black-skinned grapes are crushed and the skins are allowed to remain in contact with the juice for a short period of time, typically one to three days.The must is then pressed, and the skins are discarded rather than left in contact throughout fermentation (as with red wine making). The skins contain tannin and other compounds, thereby giving the juice structure. The longer that the skins are left in contact with the juice, the deeper the color and richer the texture of the rosé.
Rosé can also be produced as a by-product of red wine fermentation using a technique known as Saignée, or bleeding. When a winemaker wishes to impart more tannin and color to his red wine, some of the pink juice from the must is be removed at an early stage. The red wine remaining in the vats is intensified as a result of the bleeding; the volume of the must is reduced, and thus more concentrated. The pink juice that’s removed is the Saignée that’s fermented separately to produce rosé.
Some of my favorite south of France selections this year are the MIP which is gossamer pink in color. Made of Cinsault with Syrah and Grenache, it’s medium bodied with plenty red fruit, orange zest and clean acidity. Another light-colored quaffer is the Grimaud Golfe de St. Tropez, which is Grenache with Cinsault & Carignan. Bright and herbal, this wine smacks of freshness, and has a pretty label.
As for Pink Sancerre, the Reverdy Terre de Maimbray (100% Pinot Noir) is delicate, with raspberry and cherry on the nose leading to a mouthful of chalky minerals on the palate. Over in the Pfalz in Germany, Von Buhl is also doing nice rosé of Pinot Noir. Pale salmon in color, is lightly effervescent on the palate with plenty of vim and vigor. If spritz tickles your fancy, try the watermelon-colored Ameztoi Basque Txakolina rosé made of indigenous Basque grapes Hondarribi Beltza & Hondarribi Zuri. It’s attractive color conceals an equally appealing bitterness on the finish that makes it super food friendly. The Chidaine Touraine is the oddball of the group – orangy in color, it’s made of Pinot and Loire indigenous grape Grolleau and has good grip.
But sometimes you want something with a little more muscle. If you need something to match the ribs, burgers, or tuna steaks on the grill but don’t want to bring a red and think a white is too flimsy, Mulderbosch rosé of Cabernet Sauvignon from South Africa is a sure thing. It’s dark red hue is sexy like a rosato cerasuolo, and it’s rich with pomegranite and eucalyptus on the palate and lavender on the nose. Another rosé of heft is Le Roc Fronton Saignée, which is made of peppery Negrette. It’s good with BBQ and pizza. The wines are inexpensive, which is always a good thing for afternoon parties, since chances are you’re going to need more that one or two bottles.
The Cotes to Provence will always be the spiritual home of rosé, as well as a powerhouse in production (80% of their output is the pink stuff), and you can generally count on it for a satisfying glass if you’re out at a restaurant or cafe and you need something to sate your thirst. But if you’re feeling adventurous, or if you love the diversity of rose as I do, try something different. I guarantee it will delight.
Neck Down
In preparation for my first trip to Spain I decided to revisit some of my favorite Priorat & Rioja wines. Knowing that I would be spending time in Priorat at the first annual EspaiPriorat followed by a few winery (Bodega) visits in Rioja , I decided to get together a line up and taste through them with a few friends. In the first round we decided on Priorat. The traditional grape variety grown in El Priorat is the red Garnacha Tinta . Also authorized are the following red varieties: Garnacha Peluda , Cariñena , Cabernet Sauvignon , Merlot and Syrah . Four white varieties are also authorized: Garnacha Blanca , Macabeo , Pedro Ximénez and Chenin .
The first wine in the lineup was Pasanau Ceps Nous Priorat 2007: made up of 58% Garnacha, 19% Mazuelo , 10% Syrah, 7% Cab, & 6% Merlot. This wine stood out as a cocktail wine to me (easy drinking, not needing food). On the nose: jammy, spicy, with hints of dried fruits. Hitting the palate it was full of fleshy powerful fruit with a nice finish of toasty vanilla and a hint of sweetness, but not overpowering. Next we moved onto a declassified wine from Mas Doix “Salanques” Priorat 2006. This wine is made by barrel declassification: 65% Garnacha, 15% Cariñena, and the balance Syrah, Merlot, and Cab. This wine proved over the (Priorat) tasting to be one of my top picks. On the nose, elegant cedar, anise, dark cherry and a hint of black currant. Hitting the palate with dense rich flavors that linger for what seems days. A killer wine to crack with your special lady for a date night at home on a school night. Moving on to Ripoll Sans Closa Battle Gratallops Priorat 2005 (a mouthful to say the least) 65% Cariñena, 22% Garnacha, finishing with Cab, Merlot, and Syrah. While a young wine (needing a few years of a aging or a v igorous decant) it showed a great nose of, cedar, dried flowers, dark fruit and a bit of cookie spice. On the pallet, light tannin full flavors and a silky finish. Last up in the Priorat tasting was my other top pick (bang for your buck) Cellar Cal Pla Black Slate Porrera Vi de La Vila Priorat 2008 60% Garnacha and 40% Cariñena. This wine comes out swinging, great nose of smoky dark fruits, dried flowers that lend a certain elegance. On the palate, bitter sweet chocolate, bold dense raspberry and a touch of vanilla.
Fast forward to a week later and on to our Rioja tasting. In Rioja the most commonly used Tintos (red grape varieties) are Tempranillo , Garnacha Tinta, Graciano , Mazuelo , Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. The most common Blanca (white grape varietals) are Viura (also known as Macabeo) Malvasía , Garnacha Blanca.
We started the night with a 2010 Muga Rioja Rosado composed of 60% Garnacha, 30% Viura and 10% Tempranillo. Showing an elegant salmon color the wine bounces flavors of light cantaloupe, pears, and surprisingly, star fruit. It’s full rich mouth feel but still dry, a great start to the night. The first Tinto of the night was Allende Rioja 2005. This wine has a great color and is even silky on the palate. Flavors of spicy smoke, dried cherries and a bit of orange zest and licorice. Great finish and a definite group favorite. Next up was the 2007 Cune Rioja Vina Real Crianza, made up of 90% Tempranillo, the rest a blend of Garnacha, Graciano & Mazuelo. In the glass the wine gives off glimpses of ruby, leading to a palate of spicy red berry compote not overpowering but firm, lively and long on the finish. Last but not least we decimated the 2004 Lopez de Heredia Rioja Vina Cubillo Crianza, 65% Tempranillo, 25% Garnacha & 5 each Graciano and Mazuelo. Deep red in color with aromas of macerated cherry, raspberry and baking spices. After taking my first sip it was clear that we had a new front runner in the tasting. Reaching for another taste I realized that the entire bottle had been taken down by my “tasting panel.”
Yeah right more like the thirsty sailor panel.
